2
Soap with On Guard
I was inspired to make my own bar soap a long time ago. Rumors about Lye always scared me away. I started seeing recipes for “Homemade soap without Lye” so I looked into that. This is usually Castile soap. I attended a Farmers Market in a nearby town and met a lady who made all types of soap, including Liquid Castile Soap. I purchased her last bottle of this soap and started talking to her about soap making. She couldn’t over emphasize how easy it was, saying she used to be afraid of using lye too, but it isn’t as bad as people make it sound. She admitted that she has gotten pretty relaxed while using it and actually wears shorts and flip flops while making her soaps! Then she showed me a couple minor burns she had gotten from the Lye. I’m not sure WHY exactly, but somehow that helped me overcome my fear of lye. Seeing first hand what a burn from lye looks like, and talking to someone who had actually used it and gotten comfortable using it helped me face this fear.
coming up with a recipe
The Castile Soap left much to be desired, in my opinion. I didn’t feel like it was a good degreaser and I didn’t like how it smelled. So I started researching homemade soap making. After tons of reading, Pinterest, and YouTube videos, I finally felt knowledgable enough to make my own soap. The first time took me 5 hours from start to finish as I was carefully reading and re-reading my directions to be SURE I got everything exactly right. I followed the cold processing method from The King’s Roost for my first batch: Basic Cold Process Soap Making.

This time around I decided to use some Shea Butter I had leftover from when I made Lotion Bars and Chapstick with my sister. After sifting through several recipes, I decided to modify the Lots of Lather recipe for a really hard bar of soap from The Soap Queen. Using this Lye Calculator, I put in the amounts for the different types of fats I had so that I could safely calculate exactly how much Lye I should be using.
a few words about lye
Lye is poisonous and should be handled with care. It can burn you easily, so it is important to do some research so you know what you are dealing with. I recommend covering your skin and eyes with protective gear before you bring out the lye. Also keep it away from food and drink. I keep my soap making pot, containers, and utensils separate from my regular cooking dishes.

KOH Flakes for Liquid Soap

When making hard bar soap, you want to use Sodium Hydroxide (NaOH). For soft liquid soap, you would use Potassium Hydroxide (KOH). It is important to know which type of Lye you are using because each will be calculated a little differently depending on the fats you are using. It is also important to weigh your fats and lye using ounces or even grams for a precise measurement.

Sodium Hydroxide for hard soap
No matter how many times I have read it, I still re-read it every time I am making soap. Always add lye to WATER (Never water to lye!)
It’s helpful to know that Vinegar deactivates Lye. So if you accidentally get some lye on your skin while you’re working, have a spray bottle of vinegar handy and squirt it immediately! This was very comforting to know the first time I made soap!! You will also use the vinegar to spray down your work surface, and mixing containers/utensils.
measure your soap ingredients into a large pot

With my special soap making pot ready to go, I measured my fats and lye using my digital food scale from Portland’s Kitchen Kaboodle store. It is recommended to measure in grams, though I went ahead and measured in ounces for this recipe.
- Swipe left/right to see more
-
-
-
-
Somehow we missed the picture of 7 ounces of Castor Oil as well. After carefully measuring these, they were combined in my shiny red pot and moved to the stove to heat to 100 – 120 degrees. In the mean time, I used my special lye containers to measure the lye and water and then mix them together adding the lye to the water and NOT the other way around. Adding the water to the lye can cause a sudden, and dangerous reaction.
gearing up before working with lye
Before I touch or open the bottle of lye, I cover as much of my skin and eyes as possible. Yes, those are ski googles. 🙂 They make great protective eye wear! Gloves, long sleeves, long pants, shoes…if you can cover it, do so. I know I’m not very excited about getting burned by a stray piece of lye!
With the lye and ice water measured according to the recipe, I carry them outside before combining them as they create a toxic vapor that is not best to breathe. You should mix your lye into the water either outside or in a well ventilated area such as under the hood vent on your stove. I prefer to keep it simple and do it outside.

The lye will quickly dissolve in the water and heat up rather quickly. I was surprised by this the first time I made soap. I knew there would be some kind of a chemical reaction but I didn’t know exactly what to expect.
While the lye is dissolving in the water, I melt the oils together over medium heat. You want to get the oils between 100 – 120 degrees. I like it to be at about 112 – 116 degrees. Once the oil gets hot, it climbs in temperature fast so keep a close eye on it. If you are using a gas stove, like the one I have at home, when you turn the burner off, the heat is off. But when using an electric stove (Like I used this time at my MIL’s house), you need to take the pot off the burner in order to get it to stop raising in temperature, even if you turned the burner off.
- Swipe left/right to see more
-
-
-
-
time to add the lye to the oils
At this point, I am ready to combine the lye mixture with the oils. I always get a little nervous of splashing at this point. I am still wearing all my protective gear as well. The bowls I use to mix the lye with the water are small enough that I am able to lower the lye down inside my soap making pot before pouring.


You want to stir as you pour and get it all mixed up evenly. Next you are going to use an emersion blender to mix the soap until you get what’s called “trace”. The first time I made soap I didn’t own an emersion blender. I read that you could just stir it by hand, or mix it with a regular mixer, or use a drill with a mixer inserted…(yes, I tried that)…or just go buy an emersion blender already! LOL. You have no idea how long it took me to get trace that first time I made soap! Probably part of the reason it took me over 5 hours to make my batch of soap. One of my husbands favorite things to say is, if you’re going to do something, you’ve got to have the right tools for the job. And he is right! It is worth it to get one of these stick blenders!
understanding trace
So what is all this soap talk about trace? Well, it’s basically the point where the lye and oils are fully blended and truly turned into soap. You will notice the color of the soap mixture change from a darker liquid to a more lemony pudding that is thick. You’ve reached trace as soon as you can stop the blender, stir the mixture and leave a “trace” as you lift the blender out of the pot. Here are a few pictures to show you what I’m talking about.
- Swipe left/right to see more
-
-
-
I’m always tempted to over blend and make it too thick. I’ve learned not to stress over it too much, it is really obvious once you have reached trace. It is at this point that I usually add whatever essential oils I will be using. I wait until the lye is mixed in and activated with the oils to make soap before adding essential oils. Because the lye is so hot when I first combine them, I don’t want to just burn up all the natural goodness of the essential oils. So I usually add about 30 drops of each oil I want to use, and then blend it just a little bit more to make sure the essential oils are mixed in evenly.
why I chose On Guard
What do you use soap for? Cleaning dirty things off your hands, right? Germs, dirt, etc. Well, On Guard is a great anti bacterial oil so I really liked the idea of getting a little dose of On Guard goodness EVERY time I wash my hands. I work with kids during the week and am often reaching for the On Guard after a full day, just to give my immune system a boost and avoid getting sick.
I also love the citrus scent of On Guard! It is so fresh. However, I was pretty disappointed with this batch of soap because I can’t smell the On Guard AT ALL in the finished product. 🙁 I may not have put enough in for it to be noticeable. But I’m still hoping that it’s enough to add the anti bacterial effect!
pouring the soap into molds
Ahh, finally! It’s time to use those super cute soap molds!! I did make a fairly small batch of soap this time, but I still didn’t have quite enough soap molds for all of my soap mixture. So I just used a couple old ziplock freezer containers and they worked great!
- Swipe left/right to see more
-
-
-
My favorite of these soap molds is my silicone soap mold. I’m a huge fan of silicone to start with (I love how it feels and I think it’s amazing stuff!), and the soap came out of this mold SO easily! The other mold I have here is made of stiff plastic and I had a terrible time getting those bars of soap to come back out of there in one piece. The ziplock containers were easy enough, I just loosened the soap around the edges with a knife, and the chunk of soap came right out. Then I cut the brick into 4 even bars.
an attempt to dye my soap
One of these days I’m going to figure out how to dye my soap naturally! I know there are kits out there with dye, and there is always the regular food dye, but it is full of chemicals. This time I spent a pretty penny for some natural food coloring from Whole Foods. It did blend in, but I combined blue and red with the already yellow soap mixture and ended up only achieving a darker yellowish brown. Let me know in the comments if you have any dye ideas for me to try in my next batch of soap! I’d love to hear your ideas!!
- Swipe left/right to see more
-
-
Well, there you have it folks. Another batch of soap made of simple, wholesome ingredients. Here are a couple more pictures to conclude the process. You can see the darker, food colored soap in the picture below on the left.

